stitchu

Patch notes

Reference dress updates: what was wrong, what changed in the shared engine, and the resulting drawings, patterns and packages.

About these examples

These digital examples use readings corrected against their source photographs. They demonstrate pattern and engine work; they do not establish automatic-reader accuracy. Physical sewing and fitting have not been tested. Each entry states its own review status.

Pink bow keyhole mini

digital review passed

The missing bust darts now shape the actual pattern and appear in the drawing. The neckline opening stays attached to the centre front through the same construction.

Previous generated drawing, with missing side bust darts.
Before: side bust darts missing.
Updated front and back drawing with bust darts and declared edge finishes.
Now: the drawing follows the sewn pattern.
Updated five-piece EU36 pattern, including real side bust darts, the keyhole binding and bow strips.
Actual EU36 cutting pattern. Open the image to inspect the pieces.

Problem

The photo showed side bust darts, but the pattern omitted them. Adding the darts exposed a shared engine error: the chest opening and bow moved away from their neckline attachment.

Root repair

The engine now keeps centre-front attachments on their fixed axis and preserves the sewn sleeve length when truing the darted side seam. Invalid crossing openings remain rejected. Drawing and pattern share the resolved construction.

Delivered

Real bust darts, a bound neckline and explicit sleeve and skirt hem instructions. The updated appearance, pattern and four PDFs were checked together, including generation in the browser across seven body measurements and an independent review.

Scope

Digital sample from a manually corrected reading. The unseen back and fabric choice are construction assumptions. This sample has not been sewn or fitted.

Printable EU36 sample package (body: bust 84, waist 66, hip 90 cm):

A4 pattern · A0 pattern · Sewing guide · Cutting layout

Yellow shoulder-tie maxi

digital review passed in September · not sewn

Long fitted bodice, a low curved seam that dips at the centre front, a wide skirt gathered at the sides and flat in the middle, and tie straps on the shoulders.

Generated front and back flat drawing of a sleeveless maxi dress with shoulder ties, a low curved bodice seam and side gathers in the skirt. The back is not seen in the photo; its centre-back zip and seam are a proposed closure.
Generated appearance, front and proposed back. The centre-back zip is not in the photo.
Size 36 pattern pieces: front and back long bodice, front and back gathered skirt panels, and a shoulder tie strip, with seam allowance and grain lines.
Real pattern, size 36: long bodice front and back, gathered skirt front and back, tie.

Before

Early drafts lost what makes this dress itself: the waist seam sat straight and high, and the skirt was gathered evenly all round. Two attempts were rejected for this.

Shared improvement

The engine now lengthens the bodice, splits it along the low curve and attaches the skirt to that solved edge. Gathering is a zoned distribution, flat at the centre and full at the sides, and the same distribution drives the drawing, the pattern match marks and the sewing guide. On 8 October the marks were re-checked against their seams on seven bodies: the measured size-36 body and EU 34 to 44.

Now

Appearance, pattern and printable package come from one reading. In September an independent digital review compared photo, drawing and pattern and found no remaining large difference in identity; this note records that review and is not a new approval. The engine's sewability check reports no red items.

Still open

Not sewn or fitted. The reading was corrected by hand. The back is not visible in the photo: the centre-back zip and centre-back seam are a proposed closure, not something seen. The note printed inside the drawing says no opening was invented; that overstates how much of the back comes from the photo. The waist-to-hip line is a little sharper than in the photo. The drawn colour is a muted beige, paler and greyer than the butter yellow of the photo.

Pink pinstripe back-bow mini

appearance liked · fit unproven

Sleeveless pinstripe mini with a boat neck, soft ruching across the front, a deep scooped back and a large bow at the back waist.

Generated front and back flat drawing of a pink pinstripe sleeveless mini dress with front ruching lines, a deep scooped back and a large back bow.
Generated appearance, front and back.
Size 36 pattern pieces: whole front, whole back with deep scoop, a separate ruched front outer layer, and the back bow strip.
Real pattern, size 36: front, back, ruched front outer layer, bow.

Before

The fold lines across the front were read as a skirt ruffle, so the drawing and the pattern described a different dress.

Shared improvement

Visual marks are now kept apart from physical structure. The ruching became its own outer layer, caught in the shoulder and side seams over a plain supporting front. The deep back scoop and the bow are drafted as their own edges and pieces.

Now

The founder judged this appearance right in September and it is kept as a protected example. The current version keeps that look; at the founder's request it has no zip, in poplin, size 36. The engine's sewability check reports no red items.

Still open

A liked appearance is not a proven fit. The deep back scoop and the bow come from the photo; the way in is proposed, not seen: a centre-back bodice slit closed by the bow as a working tie that unties, plus a lapped placket over the upper part of the centre-back skirt seam. The drawing does not show the placket, and it may be visible between the bow tails. Neither has been tried on a body. The ruching fullness is a design estimate, not a measurement. At the bust the pattern shows less cloth than the body measure; the sewing guide does not explain this yet, and the reason still needs checking. Not sewn or fitted.

What comes next

A toile of each dress, to test the fit. The remaining reference dresses go through the same engine, and every fix stays in the shared engine instead of being patched onto one dress.