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The order it comes together

Build flat for as long as you can: every seam is easier to sew and press while the piece is still open. Close it into a tube (side seams, sleeves) only near the end.

  1. Prep. Check the calibration square, cut every piece as labelled, muslin first if the fit matters.
  2. Stabilise. Staystitch curved raw edges so they cannot stretch; fuse interfacing while flat.
  3. Shape. Sew darts or princess seams and form gathers first, while each panel is still flat.
  4. Flat add-ons. Work plackets, keyholes and back cutouts before the side seams close the tube.
  5. Neck finish. Sew the shoulders, then the facing, collar or binding while the garment still opens flat.
  6. Close the tube. Side seams, set-in sleeves, straps.
  7. Skirt + join. Sew the skirt, join it to the bodice at the waist matching side seams.
  8. Closure. Insert the zipper before closing the seam below it; sew and catch the ties.
  9. Hem last. Try on, mark, hem; a half-circle hangs 24 h first so the bias drops.

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