stitchu / sewing order / Shape
Shape, phase 3 of 9.
Sew darts or princess seams and form gathers first, while each panel is still flat.
Build flat for as long as you can: every seam is easier to sew and press while the piece is still open. Close it into a tube (side seams, sleeves) only near the end.
Selected reference steps, grouped by garment, not a complete sewing sequence. Labels name the design choices each step applies to. Follow the full sewing guide supplied with your chosen pattern. Patterns and their sewing guides.
Dress
- Princess seams: Sew each bodice princess seam: pin center panel to side panel matching the bust notch, sew, clip the side panel's curve over the bust inside the seam allowance, press toward the center.
- Princess seams on one side only: Sew the remaining waist darts (where a panel wasn't split), pressing toward the center.
- Darts: Sew all darts first, pressing toward the center.
- Gathered skirt: Gather the skirt panels along the marked line until they match the bodice waist.
- Pleated skirt: Form the knife pleats along the marked line pairs (fold on the second line of each pair, bring it to the first, all pleats toward the center), baste across the top and press.
Top
- Princess seams: Sew each princess seam: pin center panel to side panel matching the bust notch, sew from armhole to hem in one pass, clip the curve over the bust inside the seam allowance, press toward the center.
- Waist darts: Sew the waist darts, pressing toward the center.
Skirt
- A-line or straight skirt, darts: Sew any darts first, pressing them toward the center.
- Gathered skirt: Run two rows of long gathering stitches along the marked line at the top edge.
- Gathered skirt: Pull the bobbin threads and gather each panel until it matches the waistband length, distributing gathers evenly.
- Pleated skirt: Form the knife pleats along the marked line pairs: fold the fabric on the SECOND line of each pair and bring the fold to the FIRST line, all pleats facing the same direction (toward the center). Pin as you go.
- Pleated skirt: Baste across the top of the pleats inside the seam allowance, then press the folds sharply through the marked depth.
Terms in this phase
- notch: a small mark on a seam edge; match the notches on two pieces so they line up correctly when you sew.
- dart: a folded, stitched wedge that takes in fabric to shape it over a curve like the bust or waist.
- baste: long, loose temporary stitches to hold pieces together for a fitting; you pull them out later.
- armhole: the opening the arm goes through; the sleeve is sewn into it.