stitchu / sewing order / Neck finish
Neck finish, phase 5 of 9.
Sew the shoulders, then the facing, collar or binding while the garment still opens flat.
Build flat for as long as you can: every seam is easier to sew and press while the piece is still open. Close it into a tube (side seams, sleeves) only near the end.
Selected reference steps, grouped by garment, not a complete sewing sequence. Labels name the design choices each step applies to. Follow the full sewing guide supplied with your chosen pattern. Patterns and their sewing guides.
Dress
- Halter neck: Sew the bias strip ends together as needed and press it in half lengthwise along the marked fold line.
- Halter neck: Run a stay tape or clear elastic inside the back top edge binding so the low back hugs the body instead of gaping.
- Bias-bound neckline / neck facing: Sew the bodice shoulder seams and press them open.
- Neck facing: Sew the front and back neck facings together at the shoulders; finish the facing's outer edge (zigzag, overlock or turn 5 mm and stitch).
- Neck facing: Understitch: press the seam allowance toward the facing and stitch it to the facing 2 mm from the seam, this keeps the facing rolled inside. Turn, press, tack at the shoulder seams.
Top
- Halter neck: Press the bias strip in half lengthwise along the marked fold line.
- Halter neck: Bind the raw edges with the bias strip in one continuous run where you can, up one strap, around the neckline, up the other strap, then each underarm sweep and the back top edge. Stretch the binding VERY slightly on the inner curves so it lies flat; trim the excess as you go.
- Halter neck: Run a stay tape or clear elastic inside the back top edge binding so the low back hugs the body instead of gaping.
- Bias-bound neckline / neck facing: Sew the shoulder seams and press them open.
- Neck facing: Sew the front and back neck facings together at the shoulders; finish the facing's outer edge (zigzag, overlock or turn 5 mm and stitch).
- Neck facing: Attach the facing to the neckline right sides together, sewing exactly on the seam line. Trim to 6 mm, clip into the curve every 2 cm.
- Neck facing: Understitch: press the seam allowance toward the facing and stitch it to the facing 2 mm from the seam, this is what keeps the facing rolled inside. Turn, press, and tack the facing down at the shoulder seams.
Terms in this phase
- facing: a shaped piece sewn to a raw edge (like a neckline) then turned inside, giving a clean finished edge with no raw fabric showing.
- understitch: stitching that catches the seam allowance to the facing so the facing rolls to the inside and never peeks out.