stitchu

Journal

Pink bow wrap mini with a pleated underskirt

digital review passed · not sewn

A wrap-and-bow dress like the pink bow wrap mini, read from a mirror selfie: the bow sits on the left, the skirt is shorter and the cream underskirt is sunray-pleated. After six review rounds the full printable package is ready.

Download the free EU36 pattern ↓

Size EU36 only: bust 84, waist 66, hip 90 cm.

Front and derived back drawing of a sleeveless pink dress with a low hip seam, a wrap overskirt knotted under a bow at the wearer's left hip, a cascade falling from the knot and a sunray-pleated cream underskirt showing below the hem; the back has a centre zip.
Front as in the photo, seen from the front rather than in the mirror; the back is derived.
Twelve-piece size 36 cutting pattern: front centre on the fold, front side, back centre, back side, front overskirt with three pleat wedges, left front overskirt, cascade, back overskirt, front and back underskirt sectors for sunray pleating, bow loop strip and bow tail strip.
The EU36 cutting pattern: twelve pieces, including the pleated front overskirt, the cascade, two underskirt sectors for sunray pleating and two bow strips. Names inside this preview are internal; the PDFs name every piece in English.

The dress

Pink, sleeveless, with a wide, shallow boat neck and princess seams from the armholes. There is no waist seam: the bodice runs down to a seam 10 cm below the waist. A flared pink overskirt wraps across the front and opens on your left, where three pleats gather its edge into a knot under a bow, and a lined cascade falls from the knot to a point just below the hem. Under it a cream underskirt, sunray-pleated, shows in the opening and about 5 cm below the hem. The neck and armholes are finished with bias tape turned fully to the inside, and a 65 cm zip closes the centre back.

What was wrong

The first version was a byte-for-byte copy of the product-shot pattern, and the review rejected it. The skirt was 11–13 cm too long, because its length came from the other photo, while this one shows the legs. The mirror had been read the wrong way round: the bow and the opening are on the wearer's left. And the cream underskirt here is finely pleated. Later rounds found that the pleating instructions could not work, that the white strip under the bow was missing, and that the bow's tail, copied from the other pattern, would have hung below the hem.

The shared fix

The photo tool that places the hem against the hanging arm learned to work on a busy background, and it measured this skirt from the photo: the hem sits 15.4 cm above the knee. The underskirt is now a slice of the same cone as the overskirt, sewn and hemmed while flat, and the guide gives a pleating recipe that works: polyester or nylon chiffon or georgette, because heat-set pleats hold only in those fibres; side seams sewn before pleating; the layer sent to a pleating service in one piece; and the service's take-up and largest radius checked before you cut. The engine also gained a rolled overlock hem, which the product-shot mini uses too.

Checked

The pattern passed a digital review on 7 October, in its sixth round. Later shared engine fixes were checked against it on 10 October: none changed its shape; only the ON FOLD labels moved. On 11 October the package was rebuilt so the cutting layout names the same 65 cm zip as the sewing guide, and the engine's sewability check, run on this pattern for the size-table bodies EU34 to EU44, reported no errors.

Download

Size EU36 sample. Body measurements: bust 84 cm, waist 66 cm, hip 90 cm. Finished length 77.8 cm at the centre front; the hem sits 15.4 cm above the knee. Only this size is available: there are no other downloads, and the in-browser pattern generator does not support this dress yet.

What you need

Before you cut

A digital sample made from a hand-corrected reading of a mirror selfie. The back is not visible in the photo: it is the plainest sewable version, with a centre back zip. The fabric's stretch and drape were not measured, so the ease is the pattern's default, and the sewing guide is text only, without drawings. Whether this photo and the product shot show the same product is not confirmed: the bow sits on opposite sides, and the underskirts and lengths differ.

This dress has not been sewn or fitted yet. Sew a toile in inexpensive fabric before cutting your final fabric, and check there: the height of the hip seam, which the pattern puts 10 cm below the waist while the photo's proportions suggest 11–13 cm; the hip, where the ease is only 1.6 cm; and the pleats, the cascade's roll and the bow on a dress form. The photo also shows a fourth fold at the centre front that the three pleats do not make.

Read the product-shot story

← All journal stories