stitchu / sewing guide / pattern markings

Pattern markings

How to read the pieces.

Cutting line

OUTER solid line = cutting line (seam allowance included).

Stitching line

Inner fine line = sewing line.

Tilly and the Buttons: “dotted line indicates stitching line”.

Seam allowance

Free sample patterns: seam allowance included 1 cm, hem 3 cm.

Fold line

Tilly and the Buttons describes the place-on-fold mark as a “double-pointed arrow with the ends bent at 90° towards a pattern outline”.

The piece label says how to cut it, for example “CUT 1X ON FOLD” or “CUT 2X MIRRORED”.

Grainline

Arrow = grainline, align it with the fabric grain.

Tilly and the Buttons: a “long, double-pointed arrow running down the length of your pattern piece”.

The arrow on each piece, line it up parallel to the fabric’s selvage (the woven edge) so the garment hangs straight.

Notches

Tilly and the Buttons: “short lines at a right angle to the cutting line – or sometimes triangles”.

A small mark on a seam edge; match the notches on two pieces so they line up correctly when you sew.

One notch marks the front, two the back. Tilly and the Buttons: “Two notches together usually indicates the back of a pattern piece, such as on a sleeve”.

Darts and drill holes

A folded, stitched wedge that takes in fabric to shape it over a curve like the bust or waist.

A drill hole marks the point of the dart.

Test square

Free sample patterns: a 10 cm square. Measure it after printing.

Sources: Tilly and the Buttons, Understanding sewing pattern markings; How to print a PDF sewing pattern at actual size.